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Surfbreak Analysis, Management and Protection

ServiceSurfbreak Analysis, Management and Protection

Surf breaks are a unique and valuable component of the coastal environment. They have cultural, spiritual, recreational, and sporting value to millions of people worldwide. Despite the growth in the popularity of surfing, developmental pressures are frequently at odds with environmental factors vital to the existence and quality of surf breaks. Indeed history is replete with numerous examples of high quality surf breaks being adversely affected or entirely eliminated in the name of progress.

In recent years increased awareness of the fragile nature of surf breaks has led to the implementation of legislation designed to protect surf breaks as a natural resource. While well intentioned, these efforts are at times toothless in their effectiveness as there are no clear, quantitative measures or guidelines describing the oceanographic or geomorphic characteristics contributing to the functionality of a surf break.

The eCoast team has been at the forefront of surf break research and surfing science since the mid 1990’s. They have worked on numerous projects aimed at protecting surf breaks and have led the way in clearly and quantitatively defining the factors that control a surf break such that adverse effects due to planed or unplanned coastal modifications can be mitigated or avoided.

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